When it comes to knitting, we want to make sure everyone is able to enjoy the craft while still being conscious of how the materials used may be impacting the world around us. In this article we’ll discuss the ethical and sustainability issues surrounding some of the most commonly used types of yarn, and offer a number of great alternatives you can use to still make the same beautiful, knitted creations!
One of the best ways to create sustainable pieces of knitwear is by using recycled materials. Due to around 92 million tonnes of textile waste being produced each year, designers in all sectors of the clothing industry are putting a stronger emphasis on pre-loved and recycled items of clothing - and knitting shouldn’t be any different! By breaking down old garments and re-spinning the fibres, ‘recycled yarn’ can be created, ready to be turned into beautiful new pieces. One positive of using wool in clothing production is that it is extremely durable and can last for over 30 years! This means that one wool item of clothing can see a person through for huge periods of their life, unlike products from fast fashion brands which are made from low-quality materials and often don’t even make it through one wash. Due to wools tough durability, it makes for a great textile to be recycled and used again and again. Wool can be recycled using the ‘closed loop system’ which returns a garment to its raw fibre state before turning that raw fibre back into yarn. This means new products can be made from old materials therefor reducing landfill waste. It’s a win-win!
A great example of recycling old textiles is Petri Alava’s company Infinited Fiber. Petri’s company has recently invested £345 million into opening a commercial sized factory where the focus is on breaking down materials – which would alternatively have ended up in landfill – and turning them into stylish, new products you’d find in high street stores. The process involves shredding the old materials and removing any dyes and synthetics, leaving them with a brand-new fibre. This can then undergo the same process as described above where it is turned back into yarn and is ready to be used. Huge brands such as H&M and Patagonia have been quick to start using this fibre, and, judging by the company's success so far, it looks like many more will soon be on board.
Another way to ensure your craft is as eco-friendly as possible is to use organic yarn. Organic yarns, sometimes also known as eco yarns, have an emphasis on sustainability as they as produced in an eco-friendly manner. For example, organic wool could be used as an alternative to regular wool. Regular wool can present some ethical issues such as concerns over how the sheep are treated and cared for, and the chemicals used in producing the yarn. Organic wool, however, is harvested from humanely raised sheep who live on chemical free land. This ensures that both the animals, and the land they inhabit, are causing as little damage to the environment as possible while keeping the animals happy and healthy too!
Another great sustainable option is organic cotton. Although cotton is harvested from plants rather than animals, according to WWF, current cotton production methods are not sustainable. Cotton cultivation can seriously cause the soil around it to degrade, therefore eventually farmers must expand into new areas and potentially destroy wildlife habitat in doing so. Pesticides are also heavily used in cotton harvesting which can pollute the soil and water surrounding the fields, affecting the biodiversity in these areas. More research is showing that pesticides can also be dangerous for the health and safety of the workers handling them. A good alternative to this is organic cotton. Organic cotton is farmed responsibly meaning it is pesticide free – good news for the farmers and the environment! Organic fibres also don’t go through any chemical processes while being turned into yarn, another bonus!
There are also a number of other plant yarns available now which, although may be more difficult to source, are a great eco-friendly alternative. These range from ones we have all probably heard of such as jute and linen, to less commonly known ones like hemp, bamboo and Tencel yarn – which is made from sustainably grown and harvested eucalyptus trees and feels like a blend of cotton and silk. There are even yarns being made from foods such as banana fibres and fibres from corn husks! Even soy yarn which comes from the leftovers of tofu production can be used as a good alternative to silk yarn – perfect for the vegan knitter! Some people are finding quirkier alternatives to regular yarn, like Rita Longlands from Northern Ireland, who has been using dog hair to create yarn!
It is worth noting that many of these eco-friendly yarn alternatives are harder to source and often more expensive. Cotton, for example, can be picked up relatively cheap - sometimes for less that £1 - and can be found in supermarkets, making it ideal for first time knitters or those who are knitting on a tighter budget. This doesn’t mean you can’t make an effort to knit sustainably though, try asking friends or family members or checking in with your local craft store to see if they have any yarn scraps you can use to start your knitting journey!